Oaxaca
The state of Oaxaca is located in the
southeastern part of the Mexican Republic. Its geography is one of the
most mountainous in the country, yet it also boast plains, beaches, caves,
canyons and narrow ravines.
Before the arrival of the Spaniards, various ethnic
groups lived in what today is Oaxaca, of which two were dominant: the
Zapotecos and the Mixteco who played an integral role in the history of
the state and continue to do so today. The presence of the Aztecs was felt
at the end of the XV century.
Oaxaca offers a variety of attractions. It is know for
the beauty of its architecture and festivals, the diversity of crafts, the
archeological interest of the ancient Zapoteca capital with its
fascination geometric designs, and its historic churches and chapels.
Oaxaca astounds. Those who visit for the first time are
enchanted by the charm of this state; those who return time and again,
know that in each trip they undertake their spirit is enlightened with the
knowledge acquired through mutual understanding with Oaxaca's people.
The Week of the Dead
The celebration of the Day of the Dead in
Oaxaca should be deemed the Week of the Dead. Eight days prior to the
traditional appointed date, November 2nd, the city's main market bursts with
articles and condiments needed for the celebration, mainly typical dishes
that will be prepared and placed on altars at homes, plazas and cemeteries.
The offering of edibles to the souls of the
dead is a practice that echoes native beliefs. The ancient inhabitants of
this region believed that the soul of the dead would visit the home where he
or she resided. To welcome them properly, the relatives would place a series
of offerings, which included a variety of favorite dishes such as: tamales,
tortillas, atole, pumpkins, quail and rabbit, especially prepared to satisfy
the taste of the deceased. After the souls have visited the homes and have
delighted themselves with the aroma of the offerings, the food is take and
placed at the foot of the tombs at the cemeteries where it is shared and
enjoyed among relatives and friends.
Guiding
the Spirits Home
In some areas of Oaxaca, the deceased are guided home in two ways. Bonfires
built on the street corners set them in the right direction and a path of
petals from the cempasuchitl flowers guides the soul to their
personal altar. In other areas the vigil is kept at the cemetery where
musicians, playing the favorite songs of the deceased guide them home.
Pre-Hispanic Traditions
According to natives of the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, All Saints has its
roots in the pre-Hispanic era. The indigenous people would make an offering
to their deceased in a similar manner as they do today with the use of the
altars. They prepared the night before with a humble demeanor as a sign of
respect. Windows and doors would be left open for the sols to enter and
enjoy the altar. During the vigil, the relatives kept quite, and would talk
without looking up. In conversation they would ask their deceased to look
after them and pray to their gods for a good harvest and a good catch.
Symbolism
of the Altars
In Tehuantepec, the altars take the form of a pyramid, due to their
pre-Hispanic roots and the fact that pyramids were the center for religious
ceremonies before the arrival of the Spaniards.
The base of the altar is a big table, placed close to
the wall with boxes on to forming two steps. From the table to the floor,
there are another two steps or levels, a total of five stairs from the floor
going up.
The Zapoteca ancestors believed "life was sustained by
death," depicted in the altars by the five steps, an illustration of life's
cycle. The first level represents birth, the second level represents life,
death is represented by the third level, the fourth level represents the
transition period and purification of the soul, and the fifth, the return to
a new life. The last concept has a profound meaning.
Many people in the region hold fast to the
Zaptec tradition of having the biquie (pronounced "beeg") in place of
the pyramidal altar. The biquie is the offering or cross made of
flowers and fruit, which id decorated with pan de muerto.
The traditional biquie, or cross, extends from the
floor up to the roof, since in some homes the branches of the entire banana
plant may reach the tiles of the roof (the homes don't have ceilings), of
the living room.

The unique rituals and ceremonies to honor
the dead in Oaxaca are many. We have offered here just an overview. For more
information see Mary J. Andrade's book Through
the Eyes of the Soul.
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Mexico
City, Mixquic & Morelos
 Mexico
City
An ancient prophecy comes true - a nomadic
tribe with origins in Aztlan, discovers on an island on lake Anahuac, an
eagle perched on a cactus devouring a snake. It was the sign, according to
legend, that would mark the beginning of the construction of what would
later be a powerful empire. Here, in 1325, surrounded by mountain and the
Iztaccihuatl and Popocatepetl volcanoes, the city of Tenochtitlan, today
Mexico City, is built. Before the arrival of the Spaniards, the hold of
this city had reached vast territories of Mesoamerica.
Today, Mexico City displays its history to the world
through its artistic and colonial splendor evident in various museums and
art galleries. It charms visitors with the beauty and diversity of its
crafts. Mexico City captivates the visitor with the myriad of colors and
tastes of it fruits and vegetables, but must importantly with the
affability, hospitality, and traditions of its people.

Duality
To be born and to die is the duality of human
existence and of every living thing. This duality, graphically expressed
during the Day of the Dead celebrations, shows one aspect of the Mexican
idiosyncrasy. These celebrations are an expression of the fusion of
pre-Hispanic beliefs and Catholic dogmas, of humor and tragedy, of mysticism
and materialism.
In the Mexican capital, "death" is intellectualized as
part of exhibits in museums and art galleries. "Death" dresses up for a
night on the town and is seen in five-star hotels, as well as in street
stands which sell little calaveras. In these stands, located in the
main markets of the city, "death" must now share the spotlight with
Halloween costumes.
Offerings
The ofrenda or offering, which is the center piece in the
manifestation of homage to the dead, has gone through many changes and
transformations. Until thirty years ago, it was customary to place the
offering in the cemetery next to the tombs. This kind of tradition is still
seen in many small towns around the country, but in the capital, the
offerings are placed in museums and art galleries, entrusting the work to
artist who create the different subjects or motifs. These truly artistic
designs are filled with a profusion of aromas and colors in which the flower
of the season - the cempasuchitl- is the star.
The most prominent places that exhibit artistic designs
in their offerings are: the Diego Rivera Studio- Museum, the Museum of
Contemporary Art, the Museum of the Ex-Convent of Carmen and the Diego
Rivera Museum.
Rich and Poor
The rich belonging to the so called "upper class", who are culturally
influenced by customs from abroad, publicly participate only as spectators.
In their homes, however, many place a glass of water or wine in the memory
of the dead, following in this way, the tradition celebrated so vividly in
other parts of Mexico.
The middle and lower classes celebrate the Day of the
Dad as it was done in ancient times. The cemeteries are full of people
adorning tombs with flowers, candlesticks, and food. Many take advantage of
their trip to the cemetery and enjoy the day as if it were a picnic.
Calaveras
One cannot leave unmentioned the versus called calaveras, a
tradition that consist of writing humorous epithets of family members or
famous people. One of the best known calaveras, is the one dedicated
to an ex-dictator of Mexico, General Porfirio Diaz:
"The English man is a skeleton
so is the Italian
and Maximilian;
the Roman Pontiff,
all cardinals,
kings, dukes and councilmen
and the Heads of State
in the grave are all the same:
only a pile of skeletons."
 San
Andres Mixquic
San Andres Mixquic is located in a vast
valley formed by a dry bed of lake Chalco, 27 miles southwest of the
Mexican capital. By the most part, its inhabitants are native of this
region - their legacy stems from the Chichimecas and Toltecas. Mixquic was
founded in approximately 1168.
The Augustines, who came with the arrival of the fist
Spanish missionaries in 1533, gave this region the name San Andres Mixquic
in honor to the apostle Saint Andrew.
Currently San Andres Mixquic is part of the Tlahuac
territory, one of the 16 delegations of the Federal District. Together
with Xochimilco and Tlahuac, San Andres Mixquic is one of the most
important Nahuatl cities in the area.
San Andres Mixquic is one of the most
beautiful places to visit because of its strong hold to ancient traditions.
This small town near Mexico City attracts thousand of people from
neighboring towns and states, and from different parts of the world to
celebrate the traditional "Cult of the Dead".
Petal Mosaics and Handmade Mats
In Mixquic hundreds of hands pull petals from cempasuchitl and
from white and red carnations. This is the material used to create
remarkable tomb mosaics of various designs. The vibrant color of the yellow
petals becomes even brighter at noon under the sun. The yellow coloring is
so ample and intense, that the brilliance of these mosaics is truly dazzling
as the midday sun illuminates them.
Hours of loving care also put into the making of
intricate mats that will decorate the tombs of the deceased.
The
State of Morelos
Cuernavaca, the capital city
of the state of Morelos and well-know as "paradise on earth" for the
beauty of its gardens which adorn summer homes and newly built mansions,
can be found a mere 53 miles from Mexico City. The flora and fauna that
characterize this city is largely due to the spring -like weather that it
enjoys; this greenery equally extends to the far-reaching countryside
towns.
The state of Morelos is located in the central-southern
part of the country. The three regions that characterize Morelos: the
Sierra Alta (High Sierra), the Piedemonte, and the Valleys, represent the
diversity of this state's flora and fauna.
Morelos has been known as Tamoanchan, the
earthly paradise in indigenous mythology where nature left evidence of its
best work.

Most Important Celebration
Anthropologist Tonantzin Ortiz
Rodriguez agrees with many experts in her field, who consider the Day of the
Dead the most important celebration in Mexico, due to the fact that even in
the most humble of homes, the family members save throughout the year
whatever they can afford in order to be able to provide offerings, prepare
traditional dishes and share with other family members. This is a personal
celebration since it is the family of the deceased who must cover all the
costs, although relatives and friends can contribute by helping in the
organizing, such as the preparation of tamales. In the community-wide
festivities the entire town is part of the celebration where many
individuals join resources to share in the costs of the celebration.
Sleeping Outside
One of the traditions on the Day of the Dead that is unique to the state
of Morelos is the fact that in many cities, home owners leave their homes to
sleep on their porch so that the deceased can enjoy a more "roomy" bedroom
where the altar is places as well as the many food offerings.

Morelos Altars
In this region the offerings have some type of bedding as a base,
knitted with a shrub called acahuali. Banana-tree leaves are placed
on top of this knitted base and on top of the leaves the offering is placed.
This type of altar, unique to the state of Morelos, is used for children and
adults alike.
Tombs and Balloons
In Xoxocotla there are neither tombstones nor crypts, family members
arrange dirt around tombs, weeding around them. Once they have created the
desired form they sprinkle some holy water and regular water on top to
loosen the dirt and be able to place cempasuchitl, red velvet
flowers, nards and albacar, an aromatic plant. Distinct to other
regions, here, neither candles are lit nor all-night-wakes held.
After mass, just before nightfall, large balloons,
approximately a yard and a half in diameter, made by artisans from paper
mâché are launched. These artisans say that the souls of the deceased depart
with the balloons. This is an old tradition, and it is a great spectacle to
witness for children and adults alike.

For more of the unique rituals and
celebrations see Mary J. Andrade's book,
Through the Eyes of the Soul.
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Puebla,
Tlaxcala, San Luis Potosi, Hidalgo
Puebla
Vestiges of over 3,000 years of Mexican splendor
can be found in Puebla. Standing out among it archeological riches is the
pyramid of Cholula, located four miles from the City of Puebla. It is the
largest pre-Hispanic monument built in Mexico.
The capital city of Puebla is located 75 miles
from Mexico City. The city's layout and the beautiful buildings of its
historic downtown led UNESCO to declare it a Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Cuetzalan Altars
Cuetzalan is a town with customs and characteristics that completely differ
from those of urban areas. During the festivities for the dead, offerings
are placed in all the homes. A small table is used for this purpose and is
decorated with pine or other tree branches fashioned in the form of a small
shed. Everything imaginable that is believed to feed the souls of the
departed is hung on this structure: all types of breads, tamales, bananas,
fruits, etc. Small nets are also used to hang as many items as possible from
this shed. Actually, the offerings in Cuetzalan and neighboring towns are
likened more to Christmas trees or a nativity scene.
Solid food items are placed on the table’s
surface, such as mole, turkey meat or beef, beans, rice, candied fruits and
generally a type of fruit called squash-melon. This fruit is grown in this
area and is usually sweetened.
Tablecloths are not used on the altar.
Instead, it is covered with aromatic herbs that spread their pleasant smells
in the most significant place in the house. Ocote (torch pine), which burns
like incense, is also used since it is believed that the spirit of the dead
absorbs its fragrance. According to their beliefs, the more copal (incense)
is used in the offering, the better, even if there is no food or candles.
Copal must come before all other items that are placed as an offering.
For youngsters who died without being
baptized, only a glass of water, candles, and flowers are placed. What is
interesting is that these are placed in a corner of the room in a little
nook, since these little souls do not have access to the altar.
Day of the Dead Legend
Humberto Guerra, a young Pueblan,
shares a story his mother, Teresa Hernandez de Guerra tells her family every
November 2nd: “Upon the death of a certain farmer’s wife, the eldest
daughter, scarcely four years old, wanted to erect an offering in honor of
her mother. When the time came she asked her father for money to buy the
items needed. Since the father did not believe in this tradition, he refused
and went out to cut firewood. After starting to work, he began to hear the
murmur of praying with each blow of the ax. Meanwhile, the little girl had
run out of money, so she went out into the fields to look for some herbs
called elites. She made little balls and with these she made an offering.
She lit ocotes (torch pine) in lieu of candles.
Meanwhile, her father heard the praying get
closer and closer. He then saw a procession of happy souls pass before him,
all carrying candles and flowers and other offerings from their own altars.
Upon seeing this, the farmer remembered that his wife would always erect an
altar and wondered if he would see her. At the tail end of the procession he
saw her approach and walk right by him. She was very sad and was carrying
only little balls of elite and lit ocotes.
The farmer was amazed at what he saw and ran
to his house to ask his daughter if she had made an offering. She told him
what she had done in memory of her mother, verifying what the farmer had
witnessed. From then on he was convinced and vowed, ‘from now on I will work
harder to earn enough money to erect an offering.’ ”
Legends like this strengthen the tradition
and beliefs that help maintain hope in an afterlife. In a way, they are the
foundation for the way Mexicans express one of the biggest celebrations of
the year: the annual return of the souls of the deceased, to be welcomed and
honored during the Day of the Dead.
 Tlaxcala
Tlaxcala is the smallest state in Mexico. The
capital is located 74 miles from Mexico City and 24 miles from the city of
Puebla. Its boundaries are: Hidalgo to the Northeast, the State of Mexico to
the West, and Puebla which surrounds the rest of its territory. From the
city of Peubla to the city of Tlaxcala, capital of the state of Tlaxcala, it
is a half-hour drive.
The ancient Tlaxcallan Republic was
divided into the main señorios (realms) of Tepeticpac, Ocotelulco,
Quiahuixtlan and Tizatlan. During this same period in 1519, Hernan Cortes
was making his arrival to the coast of Mexico. After fighting the four
confederate armies led by the young Xicohtencatl, Cortes formed a military
alliance with Tlaxcalan natives on September 23, 1519. This alliance helped
him to conquer Tenochtitlan two years later.
Lost Rituals of Tlaxcala
Many of the beautiful customs have
gradually disappeared. One example is the procession of the Holy Burial in
Ixtenco, which used to begin the festivities of the dead, but no longer
takes place. A guild used to be responsible for coordinating and organizing
the procession which began at the town’s church and ended at the cemetery
chapel where the image of Jesus crucified was placed on the altar. The
entire community respectfully participated, but women held prominent roles.
Women formed two lines in the aisle of the chapel. Each one carried a new
flower-filled jarro (clay vase) filled with flowers and candles.
Unfortunately, the chapel’s roof caved in and
was destroyed, which ended the custom of the Holy Burial. Only a beautiful
painting by muralist Desiderio Hernandez Xochitiotzin remains, portraying
the backs of kneeling women with their heads covered with rebozos (shawls),
contemplating the image of the Holy Burial.
At the cemetery of Ixtenco, the Otomi would
place an ocote tree which has naturally grown into the shape of a cross.
These ocote trees were abundant in the forests of the region. Anyone who
happened to find a cross-shaped tree would cut it down and take it home. It
would remain there until the owner died, at which time it would be placed on
the tomb of the deceased. As a result of changes in traditions, only three
of these crosses remain in the Ixtenco cemetery.
In Totolac, it was customary to cover the
tombs with white sand brought from the Tepitzintla Hill. Then it was
decorated with capulincillo fruit which changes colors from green to purple
and blue as it ripens. Similar to the incident at the Ixtenco Chapel, the
custom of covering the tombs with white sand ended when the Tepitzintla
mines collapsed. There are some who have tried to conserve the tradition by
replacing the sand with sawdust to give the tomb a lighter tone.
San
Luis Potosi
The state of San Luis Potosi is located in
the heart of Mexico, in a region with very favorable geography. Its capital,
the city of San Luis Potosi, was founded on November 3, 1592, and is located
in the San Luis Valley at an altitude of over 6,000 feet above sea level.
The state of San Luis Potosi is divided into
four large areas: Center, Huasteca, Media, and Altiplano. The town of
Tamazunchale, in the Huasteca area, is located approximately eight hours
from the city of San Luis Potosi by car. The road passes through Ciudad
Valles, considered to be "the capital of the Huasteca," or the heart of the
region.
The abundant rains, the rich soil, and lush
vegetation favor a spectacular landscape of deep greens, lagoons, springs,
and river beds that make the Huasteca of San Luis Potosi one of the most
beautiful regions of Mexico.
Philosophy about Death
According to the architect Concha
Nava, a woman with a passion for the cultural heritage of San Luis Potosi
and of Mexico in general. “For Huastecan peoples, celebrating the dead is
celebrating life, because according to their beliefs, their preoccupation
with life is undoubtedly the best way of explaining the existence of the
cult of the dead. Their belief in the persistence of an individual in
another space guarantees that the person will not disappear, and instead
will move on to the world beyond, in a process of spiritual transformation.
If all others who died, live on in the memory of living beings through their
own offerings and prayers, then every person alive now is understood to
guarantee their own continuity through affection and memory. Carrying on the
tradition is a way of guaranteeing that in the future, our descendants will
remember us.”
The Arch and its Symbolism
Altars for the dead originated at the
same time as funerals. This expression of the Xantolo is sacred, and arches
are therefore a symbol of caring and love in the communities. They are made
in homes to venerate the deceased and await their arrival. People in this
region believe that any person who arrives to visit carries the soul of
someone who has died. When a visitor arrives at a home, that person is
treated like a king because, as they say: “Here comes the soul of so-and-so,
within that person.”
In the towns of the Huasteca Potosina, it is
customary to create one arch inside the home and another outside. The one
built outside the home is small and serves to honor those souls who have no
one to wait for them. It is dedicated to those who have died by drowning, to
those who died violently, and to those whose remains have been lost and thus
are in need of an arch because they do not know where to go. The arch is
decorated with cempasuchitl flowers as well as another flower called
olotillo.
What is important about the arch is the
intention of the person who is making it. The person thinks about the
deceased and about the fact that one day they will no longer be there
either. In that way, they are preparing themselves so that they can meet
death when it arrives with strength, certainty, and dignity, knowing that
death is not final, but rather the beginning of another phase of existence.
The Earth Must be Fed First
A common ritual when one visits a home to see the altar is that the guest
must throw some copal into the incense burner before eating. The incense
burner is used to distribute the smoke around the altar. Similarly, when one
picks up a tamal, one must allow a little piece to drop on the floor. This
is an ancient belief that the earth must be fed first. This is also done
with a drink taken from the altar. Before taking the first sip one must let
a small amount spill on the floor. In Nahuatl this is called tlaquichines,
which is giving thanks to the god of corn and the god of water, while
feeding souls at the same time. The hosts do not care if food or drink is
spilled on the floor since by doing so the guest is showing his gratitude.
 Hidalgo
With its indigenous legacy and the influences
of Spanish culture, Hidlago presents a series of aspects from its ancient
culture to a historical richness that is the legacy of its inhabitants who
are known for their hospitality. The natural beauty serves as a backdrop to
convents and monasteries, giant Atlantis-like figures, as well as mines and
pulqueras (wineries) ranches where the workers' struggles seem to be
etched within its walls.
Hidalgo is divided into five geographical
regions: Valley of Mezquital, Huasteca, Sierra, Altaplano, and the Mountain
Region. Each of these regions deserves a special visit in order to
appreciate the qualities that set them apart from each other as far as
culture, climate, topography, flora and fauna.
Pachuca, the capital city was founded in 1598
and is 59 miles north of Mexico City. Its excellent highway leads visitors
through a one-hour stretch to the city, which is also called Bella Airosa.
One can easily roam to the mountains, valleys, plains, deserts, and tropical
forest from this location.
The Agrarian Cycle and Xantolo
The celebration of Mijkailjuitl,
Xantolo, or Festival of the Dead, is an important ritual that is closely
tied to the end of the agrarian cycle, a cycle that represents life
according to the indigenous cosmogony. Professor Ildefonso Maya notes that
residents of the Huasteca, “clear the fields in January to plant. A process
that takes five months from the time of planting to the time of harvest in
May. Then again in May, they clear the fields and burn the mountainside to
be able to plant maize in June for a harvest in October. This provides a
span of ten months in between the two agrarian cycles before Xantolo. In the
two months that are left, November is a time for reconciliation and December
is for rest from the year’s activities.”
Not All Saints Day
Professors Ildefonso Maya and Mario Bustos concur with Professor Refugio
Miranda of Huejutla de Reyes, who declared that, “Huastecans never celebrate
All Saints Day. We celebrate our togetherness with our dearly departed
because these are the days when they come. As a matter of fact, we take down
the religious statues and keep the statue of Our Lady of Guadalupe. With
great respect, we place the rest of the saints under the table. These are
the days when we bring out the pictures of our grandparents, our dear
mother, our dear father, our uncle or brother, or anyone who has died.
Huastecans do not celebrate the saints, we celebrate our dead.”
October Weddings
Indigenous weddings are performed during October when the cempoalxochitl
flower is abundant, because the flower of the dead is used when making
wedding crowns and necklaces. These weddings also take place before Xantolo
because the new bride is responsible for distributing the holiday offering
at the homes of family members, friends, and neighbors.
Arches and Altars
Elders remember that on October 31st the young people would cut wooden
sticks and flowers, and friends and neighbors would help each other build
the arches. As a reward upon finishing in one home, they would set off
fireworks for a job well done and would receive a cup of freshly made hot
chocolate. When they were finished in one home, they would move on to the
next, and so on, spending the whole night building arches. This is how they
prepared to welcome the “little angels” (children’s souls) on October 31st.
The next day, the day of the adults, the young people would return to their
homes to pray the rosary while the bells of the church tolled day and night.
The decorations used are determined by the
level of income of each household. Many of the arches are decorated with
palmilla leaves and cempoalxochitl, with an array of multicolored flowers,
or with one called the Flower of Twenty Petals, which is set on or braided
into chains or rosaries. Oranges, limes, pieces of sugarcane, bananas,
tangerines, small baskets made from clay or palm leaves filled with candy or
oven baked fruit, are hung from the arches. Bread is made into the shape of
small animals and dolls are painted in bright colors. These are then hung
from the arches or sticks used to build them.
Two arches used to be built in Huejutla, one
in the back and the other in front of the table. Wooden sticks were used to
hang fruit. This is a tradition that is no longer maintained. Instead,
fruit-filled baskets are used and are placed on the altar. Altars used to be
built with four steps which represented childhood, youth, adulthood, and old
age. These steps are becoming rare since in many homes it is a forgotten
practice. What is still prevalent is the lighting of the fireworks upon
finishing construction of the arches. This is a signal that a job has been
completed.

This is only a taste of the
fascinating traditions and rituals that Mary J. Andrade explores in her
series of books, Day of the Dead in Mexico, Through the
Eyes of the Soul.
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